Monthly Archive for September, 2008

Coffee Syphon

Ever since we started carrying coffee syphons, aka vacuum coffee makers, in our shop, we have been asked what the heck it is roughly 4-6 times per day.

ready for dropSome joke that it resembles drug paraphernalia, but I wouldn’t know because I’m not into that sort of thing.  (As an aside, please do not make stupid jokes about our stuff and then get a glazed over/disinterested look when we make an honest effort to explain something to you in a friendly and helpful manner but you really didn’t care and wanted to be a funny guy- pet peeve).  Anyway, yes it looks cool and has a certain laboratory chic, but this type of coffee maker has been around since the 1830’s because it can be used to make great coffee.  Vacuum coffee makers had been popular in this country up until around 1960 or so, but faded into anonymity for a while.  With discerning customers demanding higher quality in the cup we’re also witnessing a renewed interest in time honored, manual brewing methods- like the French Press or Chemex.  The Syphon is making a comeback, but don’t call it a comeback…. it’s been here for years.

3rd stirAny coffee maker can be broken down as to how it addresses the following variables: brewing time, water temperature, how the water contacts the coffee during the brew cycle, and finally how we extract the drinkable coffee from the brew.  The Syphon, along with a timer/temperature probe, can be carefully regulated to a precise brew time and temperature.  It uses total immersion brewing (coffee and water are together during the entire brew cycle) to get a thorough extraction, and uses a vacuum to quickly (and crystal-cleanly) extract your coffee from the brew chamber.  It’s definitely the most “engaging” coffee making experience around as it requires your total attention throughout the brew cycle, so this isn’t for the folks that want to set a timer the night before to turn on their Mr. Coffee.  If you want something good you’re just going to have to learn how it works and pay attention to the details… or pay us to make coffee for you.  Without knowing much about the development of the Clover, I’d have to say that the Syphon had a heavy influence on it’s design and there are many similarities between how we use the Clover at the shop and how I use my syphon at home.
pourThe fine folks over at Barismo.com have posted an updated Syphon primer- a very detailed “how-to” based on Taiwanese Syphon Master Simon Hsieh’s techniques.  Most syphon coffee makers include the more traditional and time honoroed instructions as explained here in great detail, but after trying both I’ve become a big fan of Mr. Hsieh’s method.  I feel like I have much more control over the coffee/water contact time and there isn’t additional (& hard to quantify) brewing going on while we’re waiting for the water to ramp up or draw down.  I feel that I can affect the flavor profile of the coffee more precisely with this method- and bring out what I like best in a given coffee.  Your results may vary so pick one up, try both methods, and make up your own mind.  Oh yeah and watch this video…

Here’s the new menu, kids

Not to be confused with a kids menu… ladies and gents here are your coffees and teas.

The El Salvador coffee from the Los Inmortales project is here.   We’ll be dialing it in tomorrow morning.  By the way, Intelli’s roast of the Esmeralda was voted one of the world’s best coffees by Saveur Magazine.  I think you should take the day off, come on down to the Strip, and drink some coffee.  The weather is supposed to be great all week.

The Legend of Esmeralda

This time last year we offered the infamous $22 cup of coffee.

We took some flack for charging such a high price, but the reality was at our cost of $198/lb we were only making about a dollar on each sale.  We sold about 1% of the world’s supply of the highest quality lot of the coffee ranked FIRST. IN. THE.  WORLD… 4 years in a row- the Esmeralda Especial.  We did it because we were excited to try it and wanted to share it with our customers.  As a bonus we got a lot of free PR, and customers are still talking about it a year later.

Sure we had some customers that wanted to try it solely for the novelty of it, to say they spent $22 on a cup of joe, but for many it was a unique and rare coffee experience.  The coffee tasted fantastic- everyone drank it black… in for here cups.  Best of all we had many great conversations with customers about coffee VALUE and QUALITY- and what it takes to pull off the stunning flavors in the cup.  This kind of quality does not happen by accident.

Here’s the new stuff.

This year’s crop was vacuum sealed at origin, to best preserve the delicate aroma, flavor, and acidity that make this coffee so unique.  Our roaster Intelligentsia decided not to purchase the top ranked lot, but what this means is that we’ll be able to offer this fantastic varietal brewed fresh to order for $7.  We’re going to do one size only- a 10oz.  No to-go cups please.  Bring a friend, split it, enjoy it.

As a funny aside to all this seriousness- we received our usual coffee shipment today. Next to all the big boxes full of coffee there was this tiny little box… what was inside? Was it the Esmeralda?

Letting the cat out of the bag

We’re asked all the time about coffee freshness-we’ve discussed freshness in prior posts but I wanted to say something about espresso.

We get weekly deliveries of Black Cat Espresso from Intelligentsia.  The coffee is roasted and ships out the same day.  Chicago to Pittsburgh is only a two-day trip via UPS Ground.  The coffee is shipped in foil bags with a one-way valve to allow the coffee to degas during it’s journey.   Roasting imparts carbon dioxide to the coffee, and for espresso it is this gas that allows for the wonderful crema that essentially translates the aroma of the coffee to your palette.  A thick, persistent, reddish brown crema is an indication of fresh espresso.  Too little crema… your coffee may be stale (assuming you’re doing everything else right).  When the coffee is just out of the roaster, however, it can be a little “too fresh”.  Too much CO2 leads to a shot of espresso that can turn to gas before your eyes.  What started out as a 2oz double shot can quickly shrink down to an ounce or less.  Where did my coffee go?  Hey I ordered a double… I thought you only served doubles here… sigh.

We’ve found, with the current incarnation of the black cat blend, the coffee actually tastes best after it’s rested for at least 5 or 6 days.  I’ve pulled shots at day 12 that were still pretty great, but I think day 7-9 is the sweet spot for this blend.  The thing is… we have to make sure it tastes awesome every day of the week, no matter if the coffee is three days off roast or 12.   We make use of other variables, such as temperature, dose, and grind, to account for the age of the coffee.  Our Synesso Cyncra gives us half a degree Fahrenheit temperature control over the brew water as it hits the coffee… it’s stable, too.

On Wednesday afternoon we got in our usual coffee shipment (9/8 roast).  We were getting low on 9/3 espresso, so it looked like the 9/8 stuff was going to go in pretty soon.  To sort of accelerate the aging process, we cut open a bag and let it “breathe” most of the day before it went into the grinder hopper.

Since it was under 5 days out of the roaster, we dropped the brew water temperature down a couple clicks to 195F.  We could have taken it lower but it tasted great at 195 and the lower temp really calmed down the “effervescence” of the crema- no more disappearing shots!  Today we were back up to 197F and the shots were tasting even better.  If the coffee is getting “long in the tooth”… 10-12 days off roast, I’ve cranked the temp up to 200F and we’ve been able to coax out some really nice flavor and still get a nice syrupy thick shot.

When I met David Schomer (one of the initial proponents of the Synesso) in Seattle this past spring he told me that 203F was THE TEMPERATURE at which espresso should be brewed.  I bought some of his coffee (@ Espresso Vivace- the Dolce), brewed it at his recommended dose and temperature and it was really great.  The roast appeared to be a shade lighter and the crema had more of a fluffy mouthfeel as compared to the syrupy black cat we were used to.  The guy obviously knows his coffee and for his blend he has “optimal settings”… but they don’t necessarily correlate to my shop with my coffee and my water at my altitude, etc.  It just goes to show that there is never really an absolute best way to prepare espresso.  We gain more control through technology and techniques and apply that to continuously improve what we perceive in the cup.

What does this mean to you?  I guess I’d like to express that each coffee is different.  Play around with all the variables under your control and find what tastes best to you.  Don’t take anything for granted, and don’t drink all your test shots.

BIG NEWS- New Store Opening!

A big announcement today. REEEEEAAAAL BIG.  SO BIG I USED BOLDED CAPS AND PUT A TEASER IN THE POST TITLE.

Customers ask us all the time when and where we’ll be opening our next shop.  We’ve knowingly smiled and nodded at you for months as we labored away deep in the 21streetcoffee laboratory.  It’s finally time to let the cat out of the bag.

SHOP dot 21STREETCOFFEE dot COM

There you go.

We’ll be adding more items as we go along, but we’ve got lots of great coffee and tea gear for you to peruse as well as some awesome 21st Street stuff.  New t-shirts, mugs, and cups will be on the way soon.

If you want a drink you still have to drive to the Strip District or stop by the Frick Building downtown.