Monthly Archive for January, 2008

Entrepreneurs- the Synesso Story

Two years ago when we were getting ready to open for business in the Strip District we didn’t really know much about the business of making coffee.  Like most customers, we only knew what we liked.  We had chosen a quality roaster based on a blind taste test of several local and national roasters.  That was a good first step- we certainly didn’t know how poorly this decision could have gone now that we have the benefit of hindsight.

Six months into our first year of operation a NY Times article came my way from a regular customer of ours.   It talked about the renewed emphasis on quality coffee making, and some of the shops in the NYC area that were leading the way.  It excited us to see the press take interest in our industry and we wanted to be a part of a similar “coffee revolution” in our hometown.    Around the same time another regular customer of ours came to us with word that a spot was available in the lobby of the Frick Building.  We checked it out and after a lot of thinking and running of numbers we decided to go for it.

Once we made the decision to open up shop #2, we needed to purchase new equipment.  Having the experience of shop #1 under our belts, the above mentioned article, and lots more research, we decided to turn to Synesso for our espresso machine and became the first shop in PA to install one.  We now have one in each of our shops.

mark and sandy of synessoWe bought the Synesso because it was temperature stable and would allow us to take our drink making to the next level.  The Synesso ended up being a dream to operate and the owners of the company, Mark and Sandy, have been a joy to work with.  When I have a question about my coffee, I’m a phone call away from the folks who have actually been to the origin farms.  When I have a question about my espresso machine, I’ve often spoken to an owner of the company.  Talk about eliminating the middlemen!

I never saw the following article before and came across it today online- it’s from a few years back.  The neat thing is that Synesso is a young company, too.  They had a dream and put a lot on the line to make it a reality.  It’s great to see good, hardworking people have success.

“Machines cannot get any better than this, in my opinion,” said David Schomer, owner of Seattle’s Espresso Vivace and an espresso expert who has used Synesso’s Cyncra machine for nearly two years.

“Mark risked his house to get this machine into the world, and I think that’s rather commendable, too.”

Read the entire article here.

Tres Santos - El Portal Micro Lot

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Tres Santos, Colombia, has been one of most popular direct trade coffees since its debut on our menu. Today we’re excited to offer the first in a series of three micro-lots. Think of them as the “best in show” of the Tres Santos coffee competition.

First up… El Portal

From Intelligentsia’s tasting notes:

“…Smooth baker’s chocolate body with every sip. Black cherry and sweet tobacco accompany notes of apple skin while its sturdy acidity segues into a lingering finish of nutmeg and cocoa.”

CHOW Chimes in on the Clover

clover_rev.jpg Long time between posts- holidays have been good… and busy!

Anyway, I found a really neat Clover article on CHOW.com today. Anyone that’s visited our Strip District shop has probably seen the Clover in action, but this writeup does as good a job I’ve seen explaining the brewing process.  Definitely check it out.

My quick description of the Clover brewing process typically begins with- have you ever had a French Press? (customer says yes) Ok, so basically we’re going to use a finer grind, higher dose, accurately control time and temperature, and “plunge” the coffee from the bottom to create a vaccum and wring as much coffee goodness as possible from the “cake”- in about a minute. This is not the Nespresso you got Mom for Christmas.

Puzzled look? French huh? Well, then you get the long description, but the essence of “press pot” brewing is that the coffee and water are in contact with one another for the entire brewing cycle (total immersion brewing), much like how you would steep a tea. When the coffee has finished brewing, you have to get all the grounds out of the solution, so you push a filter, piston-style, through the coffee/water “soup” to strain the coffee/push the grounds to the bottom of the pot. Then you can pour your wonderful coffee into your favorite mug.

The issue for most folks (what I hear from customers) with the press is that it is “difficult to clean”. After you’ve finished your coffee you have a pot with a pile of soggy coffee grounds in the bottom. You also have a filter screen that requires cleaning. For those that don’t mind the extra cleaning, what prevents them from achieving a great cup from a press pot is lack of control over their coffee variables. It’s like a science experiment. These variables include- how much coffee you use (the dose), the size of the coffee particles (grind), coffee to water ratio, water temperature, brewing time, do I stir it, what do I do with the coffee after brewing to store it… etc.

Anyway this is where the Clover comes into play. The Clover very accurately controls three key variables- TIME, TEMPERATURE, and VOLUME (of water). We can fine tune, to the second, degree, and ounce the length of time the water and coffee will remain in contact with one another, the temperature of that water, and how much water is used. Two other key variables are controlled by the barista- GRIND and DOSE. We weigh out the coffee for each cup on a digital gram scale- accurate to 0.1 grams (each coffee bean weighs around that much) to get the correct dose. We then select the correct grind for that coffee on our coffee grinder, and grind up the coffee seconds before brewing.  Oh, and the coffee we use is FRESH- we only use coffee within about a week of the roast date (none of this “best before 8/08 stuff” I saw at the grocery store today).  Did I mention that we use great direct trade coffee from Intelligentsia?

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The fact that the Clover is fast (most coffees are brewed in under 1 minute) and easy to clean (people like to watch the squeegie) makes it feasible for a commercial environment like ours. We can accurately brew excellent coffee quickly- repeatably, assuming you care about the coffee and know how to control the variables. The Clover is a great tool- one that provides the barista the controls to fine tune each and every cup. Use poor quality (or stale) coffee, or dial it in improperly, and it can make bad coffee as well. The same could be said of any espresso bar running top equipment but pumping out sour or bitter espresso or scalded milk drinks.  We like what Clover’s been doing for our coffee.

Read the entire CHOW article here.